Alpine crossing E5 on foot in 6 days
The preparation 2017
And one morning at 6 a.m., around May, I was sleepily listening to the radio, SWR1. Crossing the Alps on foot. How on foot is that possible? Yes, of course, why not, it sounds great. Crossing the Alps! How high are they actually? No matter. I asked my wife, Tanja, while brushing my teeth, whether she was okay with that? I start walking and on the other side we meet again, together with the boys, for a vacation. What a daring plan, she could only agree to it! Hazards? I don't know, definitely. I used to be scared on the three meter board, I always jumped. Even a bungy jump, 60 meters, was not so easy, however, to stand on tiptoe on a board and look deep down. I jumped anyway. And halfway up - the tape held - I wanted to go back, back in Normandy. AJ Hackett, was founded in New Zealand. There were a few locations around the world, including France. And at 17 I was able to try it out. I'm not even sure if I said anything to my parents back then. Officially it was a visit to Disney Land. Kitsch, also the bus trip with some older people (4-6 years on average, the group was around 20 people and mainly consisted of a large circle of friends around the neighboring boys) was long.
I can still remember the suspension bridge very well. The board was attached to a former aqueduct, before I was weighed to adjust the rope length. It will go wrong and it was counted back: 3-2-1-los - a gentle push and I was flown, with my mouth open and eyes closed. I wanted to scream, but I couldn't, the airflow that I got into my lungs was so great. The feeling on the board, the fear of death, the look into the depths, all of this has burned itself into me. Just like the clarity of being safe after the rope held. The combination was incredibly intense. I suddenly felt immortal, invincible. Previously so vulnerable and small, scared and to a certain extent also disturbed. Why for all the sake of such a test of courage? What drove me Perhaps it was the deep need to have life confirmed. I definitely felt more alive afterwards.
But is it similar to a possible crossing of the Alps? Should my life be confirmed here? The official reason and explanation to my wife was that I want to be clear about the relationship with my terminally ill father. She could understand that, of course. We never talked about the risks that such a company entails. She let me go, trusting that I already knew what I was doing. After all, I'm old enough.
But I also did everything to appear professional and sure-footed. First of all, I watched videos. E5: with 5 to 90 year olds, even dogs, no problem at all. You can safely get over it, the classic is from Oberstdorf to Meran, a few huts in between and off you go. Oh right, I have registered with the German Alpine Association (DAV) to be insured in the event of an accident.
Since we have a beautiful eaves path on site in the Swabian Alb (and I've never walked it by the way) I thought to myself, you can practice here. It's not as high and steep as the Alps, but it is enough to learn the technique with the sticks or trail poles. In addition to these supporting elements, you certainly need other useful equipment. At best I get advice and go to a shop and ask about it. The seller was - and I'm being completely honest - a great seller. Hmjjaaa, with rain, with snow (I learned that rain can turn into snow from 2000m - but more on that later), underground conditions, etc. we have to prepare for everything. Agreed, I have my birthday discount card with me! The shoes were very important to me, after all I had to be able to walk up and down with them. A compass? Nope, I have my E5 travel guide with me. GPS watches - good idea, what do they cost? I was able to redeem my birthday discount and collect an incredible number of miles. But I was equipped now. I was ready for an adventure, the scope of which I naively could not have foreseen.
My best friend, Christoph, had unfortunately already taken his vacation, the time window was small, at the beginning of August. Sometimes all the free beds in the huts were already occupied. With Google Maps I built around the classic stage destinations. There were still free rooms on booking.com in the middle stages (in total I ran six). Even with a shower, great, and in terms of price ... it doesn't matter. The main thing is a roof over your head.
I wanted to conquer my fear of heights with a climbing course. I made it up a total of 19m on a rope without peeing my pants. My boys were also big-eyed in the climbing hall and hoped, just like me, that the instructor would keep the rope firmly in his hand.
Day 1. Oberstdorf - Kemptner Hütte
Length: 20 kilometers,
Duration: 5 hours,
Altitude difference: 1,100 m,
Highest point: Kemptner Hütte (1,846 m)
Done, now we could start. I often looked at the route on Google Maps. The stages were clearly defined. The overnight stays booked, sometimes in huts, sometimes in hotels. The week was given because availability was scarce in the high season (August). It started on a Thursday. I drove to Oberstdorf alone by car. Before that, I met my father for a cup of coffee on the track. I definitely shouldn't go. The weather is not good. Friends of his were in the area and had to turn back. It rained so hard and snowfall was reported at higher altitudes. Such weather can be dangerous. Yeah, don't go. I have no idea how fast the weather can change. Well, of course, especially now. Nevertheless, with a queasy feeling I drove the three hours there. The search for a parking space was an adventure again. How do I get a one week permit now? How, did you have to download an app first? Create with a password and such, otherwise you will be towed away. It took me almost an hour to correctly understand the difference between being notified by SMS to the Whatsapp. Aja, there was the stupid access code. So it could start. Another quick confirmation selfie. But where are we going now?
The clouds were thickly overcast, fog, poor visibility before it was only one step out of Oberstdorf. Maybe GoogleMaps will help and after all I had a compass in the expensive Garmin I bought for this event. It didn't help, I was probably a little too excited. Chris, my friend, first directed me out over the phone. He was sitting at his computer in Frankfurt and was able to guide me out of the jumble safely, in the direction of the Kemptener Hütte at 1800m. He can do that, yes, he is the clever and talented head behind many projects in our 40-year friendship. It's such a shame that he can't be there because of his job. On the phone it runs digitally, so to speak, and spiritually in my heart. And now the Combines E5 were also in red at prominent points.
I was on track. We bravely set off towards the mountains. So direction roughly south, or rather steeply upwards. The initially tarred paths gave way to more and more gravel paths, right and left it felt narrower. Past lakes. It was raining, the sky was overcast. A wind came up. I still followed the signs safely on the wide path. It is written that the first stage is easy and takes about 6 hours. In good spirits I extended my sticks, of course primarily to protect my joints and to get a little more grip. Pretty slippery, so the winding paths up. The large deciduous trees kept the rain off. I put on my rain poncho to be on the safe side. The route became increasingly slippery and uncontrollable. The brooks, which at first were funny and playful, have become bigger, more raging and louder. It was slowly getting darker, the clouds were hanging together, the rain was getting heavier, it was getting steeper and more difficult to gain a foothold. The first crossing of the raging brook was rather provisional.
Two ladders that were tied together, about 5m long, with thin ropes to hold on to. Ok, look straight ahead, step by step. Pretty shaky business. Done, let's go on. Alone, rain, upwards past memorial crosses - Elmar, 40, died here, he left 3 children - who in the world had to put this cross right here. I shuddered, I was cold now, it was getting dark, the brook was raging, I was scared! Now my legs became soft too. Great, really great, what idiot came up with such a stupid idea? Back? Nope, not yet. It was too slippery going down anyway, I didn't have my sticks under control. So go on. The rain came down the slope in bundles. A water spectacle was raging below me, just a sideways step and I fly 20m down, into the depths, and then? Another cross? My boys, oh god and my wife, where am I here? Fixing ropes should secure transitions or narrow paths. With shaky knees and cold hands, I grabbed the stupid sticks on the one hand and the hard steel ropes on the other, damn it, they had cracked, I injured the palm of my hand. It started to bleed. I slipped and clung to the steel cable under our father. And what now? Calm, very calm. Take a breath, breathe in, breathe out. Pray. Step by step, carefully along the way - I was scared to death.
And no, it wasn't romantic or fun. I was through. Mentally as well as physically. The last 500m uphill passed the waterfall, thank goodness. Up in the meandering path. I arrived at the hut in the dark, completely soaked and frozen. The wet clothes were hung up in the basement, and the backpack was partly damp. No cell phone reception. Changing socks, slippers on, reception, room for eight, bar, three wheat, two schnapps, ready for bed, kiss my ass!
Day 2. Kemptner Hütte - Memminger Hütte
Come on, somehow I found the damp clothes in the basement. Unbelievable, the many sticks were all in place. Nobody here simply takes something away from the other. An unwritten law. Very reassuring. We went on with blocks on our feet, visibility 50m. In the direction of Austria - so further south. After about 10-15 minutes there was also a sign where other hikers had lined up in groups in front of it in order to capture the impression by photo for posterity. Go on quick. Where are you actually going? The narrow path, following the others. Drizzle, cold.
I was slowly getting warmer. After a while, I was able to choose which way to go. I decided to take the shorter route. Over a rope bridge to Holzgau - 200m long and 105m high. Apparently it would fit over 600 people at a time. The bridge swayed slightly. Just don't look down again, always straight ahead.
Now there was oncoming traffic, unbelievable, at this height, I held on to the ropes convulsively and after hours I felt I finally managed to get to the other side. Yes, great, that's how I imagined it, beautiful weather and pure romance. All these Youtube videos and travel guides ... really ... the reality looks different, or my perception. At this point I have to say very clearly that the whole thing is rather threatening for me. Why did I want to have this fun again? But now back, back to Oberstdorf, no, not an option, much too steep and slippery. Someone said it was harder to go down, for whatever reason. There is also a railway in one of the many valleys. So, if all else fails, let's go on.
Finally, comfortably along the Lech Valley, beautiful, the Lech, so turquoise, so full of energy. It stopped raining through villages, there were people and a few hikers who, like me, after the E5 sign - mostly colored red, sprayed on and attached to prominent places.
Yes, why am I doing all this here? Is it to prove something to me? According to the motto, on foot across the Alps - from the Albtrauf 800m over 3000m. What was it? Was it the search for what, for knowledge, for answers? What does my father mean to me? Or just clear your head, an adventure to take the risk alone (yes, unfortunately alone, without friends and family). I got no answer and trotted on for myself.
Slowly it went up again, a thunderstorm was approaching, and at 2000m it sounds very loud, direct, close and threatening. Further. This time very steep, like a mountain goat towards the hut.
Occasionally marmots came to light, nice. The cabin was very inviting. Wheat, please, yes again, very good. Good night.
Day 3. Memminger Hut - Zams Ski Hut
And indeed, from a certain height, rain turns into snow. If you are alone in nature between mountains, without visibility or fog, then this fact can lead to a sudden insight. To date I haven't had a shower, there were many reasons why I had just postponed it. On the third day, too, getting up was associated with the anxious question: how will it be, what dangers are now lurking around the corner? I have not yet got used to having to control one's steps and kicks. Knowing exactly where to put the sticks so that they have grip so that I can move stably around the terrain. I became very aware that either you concentrate on every single step or your life is in danger. Some passages were too narrow, too “exposed”, even if places were supported by fastening ropes, that didn't mean for me that I could manage the path without giddiness, sure-footed and with stable balance. I'm a fool. A hopeless romantic and a giant egoist too. How could I embark on this risk and adventure, with this preparation, without having thought that I had a wife with three young children at home? I am scared of myself and that is what my reflection looked like on this third morning.
The view was bad. It went up to the Seescharte, in slow pace. The luggage was wet and felt heavier, the shoes permanently damp. Yes, already, still dry and new socks. It became white, it became narrow, visibility a few meters, where am I here? A couple must have thought that, too, that slowly crept in front of them. However, he managed to skillfully use his super camera from both of them in all possible situations. The air was getting too thin for me. When does the notch come? By the way, what is a notch? Must be some kind of opening that you can get through if you want to get to the other side. Then what's on the other side? What to expect Again remote places, again a steel cable. It's about keeping your nerve. The good guy with the camera right in front of me, his girlfriend behind us, amazed. Somehow it went through this strange opening, I couldn't see anything around it, from wind and weather. Anyway, made it somewhere at some altitude, it was now downhill again. Apparently more than 2000 meters towards Zams.
The cameraman's girlfriend was completely upset, just like me, only that she was crying, shivering and obviously didn't feel like it anymore. Canon man - and unfortunately I forgot his name, a very open, sure-footed and nice colleague had his hands full, his girlfriend - who, by the way, wasn't his girlfriend at all, but a work colleague ... so ... to convince that a hill or mountain had two sides, one up and one down.
And this way down dragged on forever. Slowly but surely things went downwards on different levels. Past streams and cows, meadows and forests, and indeed, the clouds became less, for the first time since the start in Oberstdorf the sun even came out. The three of us walked the paths together.
Passing massive stone walls, the path is approx. 2 m wide on one side and approx. 200 m deep on the other. Again I heard howls of protest from my work colleague, I felt the same way, take a breath, take a deep breath, step by step, I'm soooo calm.
Canon Mann said he was incredibly sure-footed, of course, why not, I definitely still couldn't say that about myself. He slipped, it was wet, he was hanging so half on the way, half with one foot in nowhere, I ran right behind him when he slipped, here my stick or better, my hand. Stupid situation, that his colleague also knew very well. After that it became calm, downhill for the next 2 hours.
After what felt like an eternity, zams, cars, people and a cable car on the other side of the valley to the ski hut. Finally, wheat, shower, wheat, sausage salad. At last.
Canon Mann and his work colleague were through with the tour. So done. They decided to take the train home. The original plan was to hike to Merano. Where would I have the next night? In any pension, below the classic route. They gave me your hut tickets - Braunschweiger Hütte (notoriously overbooked). Strong, I was able to continue the route without much detours. At the same time she gave me her E5 route book with all the descriptions. Super. I decided to read the fine print carefully. It had to be possible somehow to be able to prepare better mentally and spiritually for the difficult passages. Until now I've always got into situations like this, without warning, without preparation, naive and childlike as I am.
Fun? Recreation? Romance? Enjoyment? View? Total nil. Other findings? Yes, there is probably nothing more important than family / friends and health in the world. In this massive, relentless nature you are nothing, unimportant, small and vulnerable. Delivered.
Day 4. Zams ski hut - Braunschweigerhütte
Ha. This time I do everything differently. I've read through the fine print. There are alternative routes that did not have remote stretches of rock. The next route went over a ridge. I now knew for sure that a ridge had the habit of having a precipice on the left and right. It is important to avoid that. Not true?
The landlord wasn't there yet. Fresh air and wait, finally a view too. Madness, as a result (notch) should I have come through on the other side of the valley at 2700m? Respect. And then all the way down again. While waiting, I met a local. From where I come? From Germany, no, coming from which route? Confident and clear - from over there! Yes, so the local people say, what nobody is told is that hikers are killed every year on this ascent, it can be very slippery. So so….
Yes, and what does it look like in front of us, direction over there to the next page. No problem. No, really not, you don't have to be sure-footed. What! Well then, that's the way it should be. It was warm after breakfast, and the cows were well strengthened up the path. Nice, the prospect, Italy must be over there somewhere. Ridge, but a very broad one, this time without any problems, I got faster and sure-footed, almost cocky. After 5 hours the bus went through the Pitztal from Wenns to Mittelberg. I met three hikers on the way down. A woman with her boyfriend from England, another from Spain. You train on the Marathon de Sables in Morocco and have a maximum weight of 7kg for the crossing of the Alps. Because only that much is allowed to take with you at the marathon. I had around 11-12 kg in my luggage. What did I do differently? We walked the last part together on the steep path up to the Braunschweiger hut. The sun came out, it was getting warmer, the glaciers were right in front of us. Great. It can carry on like this. The last passage was fine for my relationship. When I finally arrived at the top at 2700 meters, I had to cancel at the hotel. I hadn't seen any the whole way. It must be on the other side of the glacier. Man i was lucky. I would not have made the extra piece easily.
An obligatory shirt could not be missing. And so I enjoyed the setting sun and was happy to be up here. How could it go on now? For the first time since the start of this tour, the clothes were dry again. Three days in a row in rain, wind, snow, and cold. No, it wasn't romantic, on the contrary, the shared shower facilities, if there were any, and the sleeping places sometimes too big or more ... no, romance really feels different. So again the why? Why should this exertion? Why just this adventure, which was dangerous for me. I hung up on my thoughts with my wheat. And finally stumbled into bed without a plausible or meaningful answer for me.
Day 5. Braunschweigerhütte - Zwieselstein
The glaciers are kissed awake by the morning sun. That looks very impressive. The mountain ranges stretch in a constant, jagged up and down as far as the eye can see. So now it's time to concentrate again. The guides have indicated that there are secure spots. And finally, this is the highest crossing of all stages. The sun was very warm early in the morning, so I could start walking in a short shirt. Actually nice that way. The ascent already looked very steep from the hut. So, step by step. The sticks out and slowly but surely up. Is it stuck in front? I heard cheers from afar. A group must have just scrambled over it. The path became narrower, hard, pointed rock on the left - on the right, it went down hundreds of meters, at least. I became different, just not looking to the right again. The path got narrower and narrower, I began to breathe faster. Crap. There was almost no space left for the sticks, at the same time trying to get a kick and hold on to ropes on the other side with your hands. Convulsive. A head start was right in front of me. No pursuers behind me. In front of me was a small group of three hikers whom I had already met on the way to the hut.
A woman wasn't that easy either. Her partner helped her get past the ledge. In went on his knees, on all fours, I don't care, my knees scraped against the rock, my gaze fixed with fear not a meter further. The sticks quickly in the backpack. I was hyperventilating. Heavenly Father to us. It couldn't go any further, the damn sticks had bored into the rock. I was stuck. I couldn't think anymore. I was stuck at 3000m. I didn't know where I was, back on all fours, the sticks came off. The hiker in front of me saw that he held out his sticks to me. In English he said I should pack it, I'll do it well. Don't forget to breathe. I felt nonexistent. I was no longer fully conscious, I just reacted. Centimeter by centimeter under the ledge. It took forever.
I was through. Literally. On the other hand, I had to sit down first. The three in front of me also had to wait, the woman also had to rest first. Right now I got the whiskey out. To this horror! Why on earth did I have to go through this. I still didn't get a really plausible answer. I was still breathing very quickly. Did I have cell phone reception? First call home and let them know that I was still alive. Sölden was in front of me, Chris always went here. Hey Chris, I'm still alive. Oh man, that was close. My legs are still shaking. Yes, the why, I'm still on it;). Slowly it went down into the valley. There was glacier snow. The sky was blue and that reflected white. I'm glad I survived that. That I was alive That I survived this passage. I wasn't a mountain goat, I'm still not sure-footed and the fear of heights is just as there as before. Very slowly it went down in large serpentines. The three were once in front of me, once behind me. Isn't that the Ötztal? Anyway, I was just through and wanted to go to the next place as soon as possible. After what felt like an eternity, I arrived there, a kind of youth hostel, self-catering. Shit. I had skipped the small print. I was wondering why it was the cheapest place to stay.
I had to share a room with someone. He wanted to sleep downstairs, yes, but I was already here, the first, and I've already made myself comfortable. Nadann ... Where can I get something to drink here, I'm thirsty and some food wouldn't be bad either. I'm out across the street, a hotel that looks good, after the five. Is there anything to eat here yet? What if I could wait a little longer? Sure, if there's something to drink? A quick wheat, yes, please again. A fillet, yes please, the big one. Medium. Super, perfect, that's how it should be. Is there a Willy here too? Even the local one, without a label. Yes, please again. What does the whole bottle cost? Yes, also on the bill, please. Hui, then probably to bed early this morning ... good night.
Day 6. Zwieselstein - Alpenhof
It started early, we met at the agreed place. Elevation increase of 2000 meters. My backpack was a little heavier with the Willy bottle and since it got warmer, I was finally able to stow my jacket and thicker shirts in the backpack as well. It almost burst too. The woman took the bus to the Timmelsjoch, we should meet her there again. And the two boys were fast, too fast, they were training, and that without an additional bottle in their luggage. I went out of my way to pretend everything is pretty normal. My thighs burned and I was out of breath after all. The ascent went over fields to streams. It was not yet allowed to drink from this brook because the upper limit for cows has not yet been reached. And that could pollute the water. The two guys had sympathy with me and every now and then gave me a drink from their bottle. Why had I actually taken so little with me? Too bad, it went faster and faster and I got slower and slower. At the top of 2500 meters there was a nice view.
It was heading towards Italy. I was flat. Could a cyclist help? Not quite. And so we went down the slope after about 30 minutes of breather. Into the Passeiertal. Past the Gasthof Hochfirst, always following the signs and drawings. Speaking of which, I haven't seen anyone for a long time, and my new friends also noticed, who were still too fast for me. The sun got warmer and warmer, huh? Lost? How's that? Weren't these the right signposts the whole time, like the last 5 days? Not quite, in Italy it seems to be different, a little more casual. Aha, so all the way back? Yes, we can't go any further here ... dead end. Too stupid.
It was clear to my fast hikers that it was going to be a long day and that there was still a long way to go. It's going to be difficult with someone - like me ... I think you saw me that the sun was really low for me. But it was also warmer here, man. Yes, already understood, no, no problem at all. I accept it. Sullen, I went back to the inn alone and walked up the path again. Slower and more tired too. Is that it now? Was this the end of the journey, my crossing? Of course, after all, I was in Italy now. Why should I now run in via Merano. My family, my wife and the three boys, they're arriving in Naturno tonight. I'll just surprise them! So, great idea! It's going home ... just how? In my life I have never hitchhiked to someone who is completely stranger.
I didn't care today, I was through. I was lucky at the parking lot, a younger driver took me 20 km with him, from there I can take the bus to Merano. Great, yes, that's how we do it. At the bus station half an hour later I was so exhausted that other waiting passengers saw that too. I should rest my head on the headrest. That saves strength. When I arrived in Merano, I got into a taxi. I didn't care about the 50 € now, I just wanted to go to my family.
And the timing was perfect, I got to the room, my wife cleared the bus after a drive of 6 hours, the three boys gave me a wild hug, I am redeemed, I am in paradise. There was one thing that had become clear to me on this trip, it was the importance of health and family / friends. Everything else does not matter. I took my wife in my arms lovingly, I had made it. But what did I actually do? I think the bottom line was it was superficially to classify the situation with my father correctly? Did i do that? Did I seriously think about it for more than 5 minutes on the whole crossing? No, have I recognized, confirmed or made something more tangible for myself? No. As I said, I was too busy concentrating on the path, step by step. I've probably been pushing my ego in front of me the whole time. I thank God that I saw my family healthy again. Over again? No, definitely not, and definitely not with such lousy preparation.
